Bangkok Tuesday April 14, 2009

Whats amazing about this trip to Thailand on top of all the other extraordinary things that are happening here, is the fact that the last time I left this country was on extraordinary circumstances. That was 5 years ago, right after the Asian Tsunami of 2004 hit our beach resort in Khao Lak south of Bangkok where we were staying. We were the last flight out of Phuket that morning and I left Bangkok a day later. I was traveling with 2 other friends and both of them wanted to take the morning flight and I was the only one who objected, preferring to depart later to have more time on the beach. Thankfully it was 2 against one and we left early, or else I don’t know what could have become of us. Today I woke up and hit all the big sights via river boat: the Grand Palace (home of the King) with its golden stupas (like a big shrine), its ornate roofs and gigantic steps leading up to the tallest throne I’ve ever seen. The grounds are so unique since each King since the mid 1800’s has left his personal touch on the place. For example, the Kings that ruled in the late 19th and early 20th century built beautiful administrative buildings for government staff that could equally rival any stately building in Brussels, Paris or London. It was so hot though, even in the mid morning and much water was needed. Next I went to Wat Pho which is one of the most famous temples in Bangkok since it is home to the largest sleeping Buddha on the planet. Encased in gold, Buddha is as big as the eye can see and yet still protected from the elements in a traditional Thai pagoda-esque structure. Since it was Songkran (Thai New Year), there was a large festival going on with people bathing smaller Buddhas in scented water (for many auspicious reasons), traditional foods to try and cultural demonstrations. I enjoyed every second of it, especially spotting the fat Americans in line for the “ancient Thai ice cream.” After Wat Pho, I took another river ferry across the Chao Phraya (which runs through Bangkok) over to Wat Arun which is an ancient temple that mimics the architectural style of Angkor Wat. It was beautiful and situated right along the river. There was traditional Thai dancing going on and more foods to try. The day became so hot though, I decided to get some work done at a café and stay cool. That night, after I had eaten at the 24 Hour Mexican restaurant again (yes, I ate there the night before and it was amazingly authentic-right down to SoCal prices), I returned to my hotel where there was a giant water fight in the street. Thai New Year calls for celebrating the oncoming rainy season so people traditionally celebrated water and it has now turn into this amazing water fight. The streets to the hotel where completely blocked off and I was soaked in a matter of seconds from people with enormous water guns, buckets and hoses. Thankfully my computer stayed dry inside its case. I went out later and got even more wet and covered in a flour paste mixture that people make and then run up to you and rub on your face. I think the Thais really know how to live; great fresh food, lots of massages, many celebrations and a very vibrant culture that doesn’t forget its foundation. Despite the protests and the people who died during them while I slept nearby, the city and its people made the choice to celebrate anyhow, because in Thailand there is never any reason to stop enjoying life. Unfortunately though, the protests over Thaksin will only worsen and the situation is expected to get worse. This will have huge ramifications on the Thai economy and its poor neighbors; Cambodia, Laos, even Myanmar since tourists could stay away. I would come back in a heartbeat though.